Why Sumbawa should be on your Eco-Travel Itinerary

The rugged beauty of Sumbawa

Sumbawa is an ultra rugged large landmass with Lombok to the West and Flores to the East.  It’s not to be confused with the island of Sumba, which lies to its South East.  Sumbawa is indeed large. It’s bigger than Bali and Lombok combined (and then some).  The scenic island is hard to get to and does not offer a robust infrastructure, but the adventure loving traveler is rewarded with unspoiled beaches of turquoise waters, world class surf and welcoming and gracious locals.

Watching hundreds of uninhabited islands go by on the ferry ride from Lombok to Sumbawa

Indonesia's Volcanos and The Ring of Fire

It is an island of angular and twisting peninsulas, deep protected bays, forested mountains, and of course Mount Tambora, the infamous volcano that is responsible for killing over 72,000 in one eruption.  Sumbawa, as the rest of the 14,000 Indonesian islands, sits directly upon The Ring of Fire. The infamous explosion took place in April, 1815 and is considered the most destructive volcanic eruption in modern history. It spewed 100 cubic kilometers (24 cu mi) of ash into the atmosphere, causing the “year without summer”.  Very few crops could be produced following the eruption as the ash blocked out the sun causing the deaths of thousands more worldwide.

The beautiful and plentiful islands off Sumbawa's coast provide endless adventure for the eco-tourist

Sumbawa is a Surfer's Paradise

Historically, Sumbawa was invaded by Western marauders for its honey, wild horses and sandalwood. Today, Sumbawa is known for surfing boasting several world-class surf breaks. The most well known surf spots include Lakey Peak, Cobblestones and Onnie’s Right, but there are many more exceptional breaks like Benete, Nungas, Periscopes, Yo-Yo’s and the ominously and perhaps unfortunately aptly named Scar Reef and Super Suck. Most breaks are for good to experienced surfers but Benete, Lakey, Periscopes and Scar Reef are best left for the more expert level surfers. Sumbawa receives great surf year round but the best swells are generally from April to September. If you are interested, please contact us or research the surf camps at Dompu (Lakey), Sekongkang and Hu’u. One last surf note, tides really determine the conditions here, so it is important to have a tide table handy.

Ripping Surf Breaks Await the Traveling Surfer in Sumbawa

What if you don't surf?

Despite the fact that not many travelers explore this scenic island, it is a wonderful place to visit even if you don't surf.  In fact, Sumbawa’s slogan is B E S A R which means 'big' in Bahasa Indonesia and the letters of the slogan stand for Bersih, Elok, Sehat, Aman damai, Rapi. Roughly translated, that means Clean, Beautiful, Healthy, Peaceful and Neat.

Sadly, the island is not without its challenges. Sumbawa is poor, and health and education are very much at the development stage. The infrastructure is in its nascent stages and there are a couple good roads, but for the most part, travel is difficult across the sprawling island. In just a matter of minutes we almost collided with other cars, dozens of motor bikes, huge pot holes, cows, dogs, cats, chickens, goats, some unidentifiable animals, people just hanging out in the roads and other obstacles.

Children play along the coast overlooking clear turquoise water

To compound the struggles the good people of Sumbawa are faced with, the mega-corporation Newmont and its partners have invested almost $2 billion USD in an enormous copper mine, making Batu Hijau one of the largest mines in the world. Little if anything is done to protect the island and the company is straight raping the land and leaving muddy, polluted messes for the poor native peoples. Newmont has been involved in many scandals including mercury and arsenic poisoning here in Sulawesi not to mention the ongoing pollution cases on four continents.  It is appallingly sad that this continues and permits have already been issued by corrupt politicians to allow further pillaging until 2034.

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Rugged volcanic rock dot the perfect white sandy beaches of Sumbawa recalling deadly eruptions of Mount Tambora

Sumbawa is a must for the eco-adventure traveler

The pace of life in Sumbawa is chill and slow. People sit together and eat delicious fresh food and enjoy the rustic natural beauty of the island. That is not to say that they are not dedicated and hard working folk. Local people are predominantly Muslim but traditional beliefs and practices also continue to influence daily life. There are two main cultural groups in Sumbawa. Generally, the Tau Samawa live in the west and the Dou Mbojo inhabit the east.

The generous and friendly people of Sumbawa enjoy a slow paced lifestyle and appreciate the bounty of beauty that surround them

Traditional living and ancient rituals await the eco-adventure traveler

In parts of Sumbawa, traditional ways of living continue today and I urge you to get out into the villages to observe this interesting way of life. While you are there, see what you can do to help like donate time, clothing, gear or just play with the children and share with them. Many of the ancient rituals are still performed such as water buffalo racing and berempuk, which is an exciting ritual boxing match.  Try to find a guide who can take you into these villages as entering them by yourself may be perceived as unwelcomed.  We can certainly assist you and have some wonderful contacts that would be delighted to help you, as it is difficult to find accommodations and your way around on your own.  Please contact us and we would be happy to help.

Great Surf, White Sand Beaches and Pristine Water make Sumbawa a perfect adventure for the eco-traveler

Sustainable living and caring for the land

The people have learned to live of the land and have deep respect for the natural resources.  We were lucky to spend time with our extended family and my wife’s uncle, despite his advancing age, is still a ‘super forest man’. I consider myself a capable outdoorsman but I could barely keep up with his pace through the jungle. Treading through dense brush barefoot, finding paths I could never see, with machete in hand showing me all kinds of plants used for shelter, first aid, food, water and more. He has build beautiful, strong and sustainable buildings from bamboo for his family and his coveted bonsai trees are a true work of art.

Only two islands over, Sumbawa is a world away from Bali and its luxurious accommodations but the adventure traveler can learn and experience a great deal on this storied island.  For more information and help planning your adventure to Sumbawa, please contact us today.

Heading back to Bali after an amazing adventure to rugged but beautiful Sumbawa

A huge thank you to the lovely people of Sumbawa and now Back to Bali

The Human Blood Sacrifice Ritual of The Bali Aga

As discussed in previous blog posts (here and here), The Bali Aga or Bali Mula is a little known ethnic group on the paradise island of Bali and they provide an incredibly unique look back to Bali’s past and serve as a living museum of a 17^th century lifestyle. 

The Bali Aga village of Tenganan hosts the bloody ceremony of Mekare KareThey are a secretive and private group whose ancestors predate Hinduism in Bali.  Culturally they are quite different from the rest of Bali’s population and have clung tightly to their history and ceremonies that are unlike any others on the island or the rest of Indonesia.

Two youg Bali Aga boys battle during Mekare Kare

Only two Bali Aga villages remain.  The villages of Tenganan and Trunyan are located North West of Candi Dasa and Amed, in Eastern Bali and both are a stronghold of ancient native traditions.

The Human Blood Sacrifice Ritual of The Bali Aga

The Tenganans still practice an ancient rite known as Mekare Kare, which is a ritual blood sacrifice. This annual ritual fighting of its tribe members is a sight unlike any other that I have seen in South East Asia.  Mekare Kare is the highlight of the 3 day Udaba Samba celebration that occurs in May or June. 

The mediator struggles to maintain control during the blood sacrifice ritualI have been to many villages that hold fighting ceremonies between male combatants with all manner of weapons including bamboo poles, whips, swords, shields, animal parts, etc.  Many tend to be tame and are more of a ceremonial fight than actual combat. (That’s easy for me to say as I stand on the sideline with my camera.)  While there is bloodshed and fierce competition at times during the Mekare Kare battle, the combatants always leave with a smile and maintain love for one another.  But lets be clear, these fighters are armed with razor sharp weapons that do damage and cause great pain.

The Pandanus Tree provides the razor sharp weapons used in the blood ritualPreperation for the Bali Aga ceremony

In the days preceding the big event the thorny Pandanus tree, much like a succulent, with razor sharp spines are harvested and compiled into packets of ten leaves at a length of approximately 14 inches (36 centimeters).  They also carry a rattan-woven shield to protect them from their opponent’s attempts to smack and rake the thorns into his flesh.

A bundle of Pandanus leaves create the weapon used in the Bali Aga Ceremony

Before the fight commences, participants drink rice wine or tuak (a strong fermented local palm alcohol- for more on tuak, click here).  This ritual symbolizes the brotherhood and love amongst the tribe. The fighting is judged and managed by a mediator who looks out for the safety of all combatants and makes sure no one falls off the platform or suffers injuries inconsistent with the battle proper. Battles last 5 to 10 minutes and the fighter who inflicted the most damage and draw the most blood with the thorny weapon is crowned the victor.

The crowd shouts and brandishes thier Pandan weapons during the ritual fighting

The Blood Sacrifice Battle of The Bali Aga

Early in the ceremony the young boys face off against one another and subsequent matches pit older opponents against one another.

Young boys are the first combatants in the Bali Aga ritual blood sacrificeAfter the battle a special traditional liquid medicine is administered to the injured (which tends to be just about everyone). Then the entire village prepares food and drink for an elaborate feast, which must follow the Balinese sacrifice of human blood.

The battle scars from the blood sacrifice ritual in Bali, Indonesia

I want to reiterate that travel into these parts of Bali is not for everyone and can result in violence if the traveler is unaccustomed to the ways of the Bali Aga.  It is highly recommended to use the services of a guide or tour company like Balifornian or the many other qualified and knowledgeable companies in Bali.

The big men take thier turn battling it out during the Mekare KareHave you seen a unique ceremony or ritual like this in your travels?  Please leave a comment below and tell us about it.

Happy (and safe) Travels from The Balifonians!

More Bali Aga Images ~ Balifornian Villas and Tours Photo of the Day

Salamat Datang Samua!

I wanted to share a couple more Bali Aga photos.  I am still working on the images and text for the  mekare kare blog post, which is the ritual blood sacrifice fight ceremony.  So stay tuned for more on this ritual ceremony, but for now have you ever seen a pre-industrial ferris wheel?  Here is a photo of a wooden structure used for a ride like you would see at an amusement park.  The skill and engenering of these fine artisans and craftsmen is quite amazing.

A Bali Aga Ferris Wheel. The amazing craftsmanship of the artists here is really something to marvel at.Bali Photography

Meet Nyoman.  He is excited and ready for the mekare kare to begin. The ceremony draws big crowds from all over Bali.  Nyoman knew to come early to get a "ringside seat".  He is chewing betel nut which made his Bahasa Indonesia even harder for me to understand.

A Bali Aga villager chews Betel Nut in preperation for the fight ceremony.

Stay tuned for more on this rite and photos from the fighting ceremony. And for more on The Bali Aga please see here and here.  Please remember this area is not as safe to travel in by yourself unless you are experienced with Bali and the Bali Aga community.  I have read recently that the Bali Aga Villages and The Indonesian government have had talks recently and The Bali Aga elders have promised to be more welcoming to tourists but we do not advise entering the area without and experienced guide. Please contact us here for more help and information.

Have you seen this ceremony?  Please let us know your thoughts in the comment section below.

Salamat Jalan and we hope to see you soon!

The Bali Aga of Tenganan ~ A Photo Essay

The Bali Aga of Tenganan, Bali, Indonesia

A young Bali Aga girl stands amongst colorful weavings

The Bali Aga are known as the original Balinese people and predate Hinduism in Bali.  They are a unique ethnic group that lived on the island of Bali before modern civilization. These original inhabitants of Bali fled imperialistic invaders, eventually finding refuge in the solitude of Bali's remote mountains. Today, only two villages remain, which until recently, were firmly and purposfully shut off from the rest of the world. The main temple in the village dates back to the 10 century AD (833 Caka) but the village itself is said to be much older than the temple.

Two Bali Aga Pendanda (High Priests) enter the ceremonial grounds with thier sacred Kris (swords)

Located just west of Candi Dasa and Amed lie the villages of Tenganan and Trunyan. The Bali Aga produce fine baskets and weavings and a special double weave ikat, called geringsing.  These highly sought after artworks are unique to the small region and not available any where else. A true Aga Ikat can take over 5 years to create and they are primarily used in religious ceremonies.

The Tenganan’s provide a look into early Bali but the society has very strict rules.  It can be dangerous for outsiders and is not recommended without an experienced guide.  Please contact us directly for assistance when attempting to visit this interesting but possibly dangerous area.

There are only 600 Bali Aga families in Tenganan, and locals are forbidden to marry people from outside of the village. If they do, their family is banished from the village for life.   

Young Bali Aga girls look on in thier ceremonial dress as the ceremony is about to begin

For more on The Bali Aga please see

http://www.balifornian.com/blog/2010/12/24/tenganan-and-the-bali-aga-the-real-old-school-bali.html

A beautiful young Bali Aga girl smiles as she is lead to the ceremonyAlso the Bali Aga culture practices an ancient ritual known as mekare kare, which is a ritual blood sacrifice.  Stay tuned for more on this rite and photos from the fighting ceremony.

An elder Bali Aga woman watches intently from her doorwayHappy and safe travels,

The Balifornian Team

Bali Photos of the Day ~ Bali Cremation Ceremony ~ Balifornian Villas and Tours

Today we have more images from a Ngaben or Balinese Cremation Ceremony that took place near Ubud, Bali, Indonesia.

Pendanda blesses women during ceremonyThe Pendanda (High Hindu Priest) blesses the women during the cremation ceremony.  While it is a sad and serious ceremony, you will often see people smiling and enjoying themselves. 

Beautiful Balinese woman laughs with friendsPrayers for the deceased at a cremation ceremonyVillagers give offerings and pray for the deceased during the ceremony

The body is burned during a cremation ceremony in Bali, IndonesiaThe body is burned .the ashes and fragments will be collected and ceremoniously placed in a nearby river.