Bali Photo of the Day ~ Bali Surf and Yoga Retreat

Today's Bali photo comes from a surf outing with our Surf and Yoga Retreat group to Bali's most famous surf break, Uluwatu.

The Bali Surf and Yoga Retreat was run through Bali Floating Leaf Eco Retreat and they provided this amazing image. They also provide surf villas and all you need to have an epic surf vacation in Bali.

For more on surfing in Bali, Uluwatu, awesome surf photos from Bali and insider's tips, just click How to Surf Bali ~ Uluwatu ~ An Illustrated Guide [Photos]

Surfing Bali ~ Tips tricks and Insider Info

Bali Photo of the Day ~ Bali Royal Cremation

The Bali photograph for today comes from an auspicious outing for our Yoga and Wellness Retreat participants. After a powerful morning of yoga at the villa we headed into Ubud for a cultural excursion. We had been seeing the daily construction of the Bade (cremation tower) and Bull and we knew the royal cremation ceremony or Ngaben would soon be taking place. However, we did not know it would be this day.

Our Bali Yoga and Wellness Retreat was able to witness this rare Royal Cremation Ceremony in Ubud, BaliOur Yoga Retreat guests were overjoyed to be able to witness this rare rite. More images from this ceremony are soon to come and if you would like to read more about Ngaben Cremation Ceremonies and see some compelling photos, please click here and here and here.

For more on our Yoga and Wellness Retreats just click here.

Why Sumbawa should be on your Eco-Travel Itinerary

The rugged beauty of Sumbawa

Sumbawa is an ultra rugged large landmass with Lombok to the West and Flores to the East.  It’s not to be confused with the island of Sumba, which lies to its South East.  Sumbawa is indeed large. It’s bigger than Bali and Lombok combined (and then some).  The scenic island is hard to get to and does not offer a robust infrastructure, but the adventure loving traveler is rewarded with unspoiled beaches of turquoise waters, world class surf and welcoming and gracious locals.

Watching hundreds of uninhabited islands go by on the ferry ride from Lombok to Sumbawa

Indonesia's Volcanos and The Ring of Fire

It is an island of angular and twisting peninsulas, deep protected bays, forested mountains, and of course Mount Tambora, the infamous volcano that is responsible for killing over 72,000 in one eruption.  Sumbawa, as the rest of the 14,000 Indonesian islands, sits directly upon The Ring of Fire. The infamous explosion took place in April, 1815 and is considered the most destructive volcanic eruption in modern history. It spewed 100 cubic kilometers (24 cu mi) of ash into the atmosphere, causing the “year without summer”.  Very few crops could be produced following the eruption as the ash blocked out the sun causing the deaths of thousands more worldwide.

The beautiful and plentiful islands off Sumbawa's coast provide endless adventure for the eco-tourist

Sumbawa is a Surfer's Paradise

Historically, Sumbawa was invaded by Western marauders for its honey, wild horses and sandalwood. Today, Sumbawa is known for surfing boasting several world-class surf breaks. The most well known surf spots include Lakey Peak, Cobblestones and Onnie’s Right, but there are many more exceptional breaks like Benete, Nungas, Periscopes, Yo-Yo’s and the ominously and perhaps unfortunately aptly named Scar Reef and Super Suck. Most breaks are for good to experienced surfers but Benete, Lakey, Periscopes and Scar Reef are best left for the more expert level surfers. Sumbawa receives great surf year round but the best swells are generally from April to September. If you are interested, please contact us or research the surf camps at Dompu (Lakey), Sekongkang and Hu’u. One last surf note, tides really determine the conditions here, so it is important to have a tide table handy.

Ripping Surf Breaks Await the Traveling Surfer in Sumbawa

What if you don't surf?

Despite the fact that not many travelers explore this scenic island, it is a wonderful place to visit even if you don't surf.  In fact, Sumbawa’s slogan is B E S A R which means 'big' in Bahasa Indonesia and the letters of the slogan stand for Bersih, Elok, Sehat, Aman damai, Rapi. Roughly translated, that means Clean, Beautiful, Healthy, Peaceful and Neat.

Sadly, the island is not without its challenges. Sumbawa is poor, and health and education are very much at the development stage. The infrastructure is in its nascent stages and there are a couple good roads, but for the most part, travel is difficult across the sprawling island. In just a matter of minutes we almost collided with other cars, dozens of motor bikes, huge pot holes, cows, dogs, cats, chickens, goats, some unidentifiable animals, people just hanging out in the roads and other obstacles.

Children play along the coast overlooking clear turquoise water

To compound the struggles the good people of Sumbawa are faced with, the mega-corporation Newmont and its partners have invested almost $2 billion USD in an enormous copper mine, making Batu Hijau one of the largest mines in the world. Little if anything is done to protect the island and the company is straight raping the land and leaving muddy, polluted messes for the poor native peoples. Newmont has been involved in many scandals including mercury and arsenic poisoning here in Sulawesi not to mention the ongoing pollution cases on four continents.  It is appallingly sad that this continues and permits have already been issued by corrupt politicians to allow further pillaging until 2034.

This blog post continues below

Rugged volcanic rock dot the perfect white sandy beaches of Sumbawa recalling deadly eruptions of Mount Tambora

Sumbawa is a must for the eco-adventure traveler

The pace of life in Sumbawa is chill and slow. People sit together and eat delicious fresh food and enjoy the rustic natural beauty of the island. That is not to say that they are not dedicated and hard working folk. Local people are predominantly Muslim but traditional beliefs and practices also continue to influence daily life. There are two main cultural groups in Sumbawa. Generally, the Tau Samawa live in the west and the Dou Mbojo inhabit the east.

The generous and friendly people of Sumbawa enjoy a slow paced lifestyle and appreciate the bounty of beauty that surround them

Traditional living and ancient rituals await the eco-adventure traveler

In parts of Sumbawa, traditional ways of living continue today and I urge you to get out into the villages to observe this interesting way of life. While you are there, see what you can do to help like donate time, clothing, gear or just play with the children and share with them. Many of the ancient rituals are still performed such as water buffalo racing and berempuk, which is an exciting ritual boxing match.  Try to find a guide who can take you into these villages as entering them by yourself may be perceived as unwelcomed.  We can certainly assist you and have some wonderful contacts that would be delighted to help you, as it is difficult to find accommodations and your way around on your own.  Please contact us and we would be happy to help.

Great Surf, White Sand Beaches and Pristine Water make Sumbawa a perfect adventure for the eco-traveler

Sustainable living and caring for the land

The people have learned to live of the land and have deep respect for the natural resources.  We were lucky to spend time with our extended family and my wife’s uncle, despite his advancing age, is still a ‘super forest man’. I consider myself a capable outdoorsman but I could barely keep up with his pace through the jungle. Treading through dense brush barefoot, finding paths I could never see, with machete in hand showing me all kinds of plants used for shelter, first aid, food, water and more. He has build beautiful, strong and sustainable buildings from bamboo for his family and his coveted bonsai trees are a true work of art.

Only two islands over, Sumbawa is a world away from Bali and its luxurious accommodations but the adventure traveler can learn and experience a great deal on this storied island.  For more information and help planning your adventure to Sumbawa, please contact us today.

Heading back to Bali after an amazing adventure to rugged but beautiful Sumbawa

A huge thank you to the lovely people of Sumbawa and now Back to Bali

The Sacred Rituals of Besakih ~ And the Gods came down to Bali… A photo essay.

The Sacred Rituals of Besakih ~ And the Gods came down to Bali… A photo essay.

Putu and I have been working tirelessly on getting the plans secured for our wellness retreat center here in Bali. It seems to be a Sisyphean task as we progress forward, only to uncover six other undertakings that need to be accomplished. That being said each day brings new opportunities, blurring the focus but bringing excitement. You speak with 10 notaries (notaries are a bit like lawyers back home), and you get 10 different solutions. But progress is being made and with this upcoming week chock full of meetings, we will have a much clearer picture.

An inquisitive little girl looks back at me during prayers at Besakih Temple

In these pursuits we have taken counsel with a dear friend and experienced hotelier Mas Ngurah. We arrived at Mas Ngurah’s home to find his wife Dian preparing dozens of ornate offerings. I asked if there was a particular ceremony approaching and she told us Ida Batara Turun Kabeh was next week and asked if we would like to come.  I had never been, so I jumped at the chance to witness one of the holiest rituals in the Balinese Hindu calendar.  The sacred ceremony is observed on the full moon of the tenth month in Balinese Hindu calendar called Purnama Kedasa.

Here is short video of the day's events.

Thousands of Balinese Hindus flock to the six holy temples on Ida Batara Turun Kabeh

It is said that all the Gods come down to earth on this auspicious day and reside at the six holiest temples on Bali.  Chief among these are of course Pura Besakih, or The Mother Temple on the slopes of mighty Mount Agung. Besakih is Bali’s largest, highest and most holy temple. It is perched 3142 meters above sea level on the active Gunung Agung volcano.

Leading up to the ceremony, several rituals are performed at Pura Besakih. Most notably is the exorcism rite called Tawur Agung Kesanga, which is held on the black moon, or Tilem Caitra, of the ninth month in the Balinese calendar.

Our first stop on Ida Batara Turun Kabeh, Pura Batur

First stop ~ Pura Batur Temple

Before we headed up the narrow roads of the volcano we stopped to give offerings at one of the other holy six temples called Pura Batur.  It was utterly packed with devotees waiting hours to enter the temple grounds. It was as if someone said, “Hey! I have an idea, why doesn’t everyone on the island go to a tiny temple way up in the mountains on the same day?” People were passing out waiting in the heat as thousands crammed up the steps and through the narrow temple gates to get a chance to present their offerings and pray. In fact, I was the only one in our group able to negotiate the throngs and make it into the temple. I guess my finely honed skills developed over years of sneaking up to the front row at packed rock concerts paid off. I bequeathed my offerings and partook in the prayers, but when the group of several hundred were ushered out to allow for the next group to be let in, I veiled myself behind the huge piles of offerings and was able to linger inside and document the next group being led in prayer by the Mangku (High Priest).

A handsome young fella smiles back at us while we wait to enter the main temple at Pura Besakih

On to Pura Besakih, Bali's Mother Temple

After reconnecting with the group, we ventured off to the main event at Pura Besakih. This was no simple task as the traffic on the small snaking mountain road was backed up for miles. While this is a major event and a profound experience, it may not be for the average tourist as ones patience is genuinely put to the test. It may be best to visit Besakih at a time other than a sacred ceremony in order to avoid the vast multitudes and delays. I saw only a handful of bule (fellow ‘crackah’ or more properly, Caucasian) amongst the possibly tens of thousands the whole day.

Balinese Hindus make their way up the famous steps of Pura Besakih, The Mother Temple

Since the traffic was not moving, I decided to head out on foot so I could document the event.  Much to my surprise, the pilgrims were not as densely packed as they were at Pura Batur.  There were still thousands of worshipers but given Besakih’s immense size, the masses were not as dense.

Mas Ngurah led us up Besakih’s famed steps to his clan’s private temple dedicated to their ancestors. There are 21 other similar temple complexes on six terraces that surround the main temple known as Pura Penataran Agung.

The origins of Besakih Temple

The venerated temple’s name “Besakih” comes from the Sanskrit word “Basuki”, derived from the word “Wasuki” meaning Salvation. Sanskrit then became the basis for much of Bahasa Java and then into Bahasa Indonesia. Also, in Samudramanthana mythology, the same name “Besuki” refers to the Dragon-God “Naga Besukian”, who lived inside Gunung Agung volcano.

The Mankgu or Balinese Hindu High Priest leads the faithful in prayer during Ida Batara Turun Kabeh The first recorded mention of the temple’s existence comes from an inscription dating back to 1007 AD. It is known that since the 15^th century Besakih was regarded as the central temple of Hinduism in Bali and remains so until this day.

The masses in sacred prayer during Ida Batara Turun Kabeh at Bali's famed Mother Temple

Tri Hita Kirana ~ The fundamental concept of The Balinese Hindus

The prevailing Balinese philosophy of Tri Hita Kirana is expressed in the temple’s architecture. This essential belief of the Balinese people teaches that life must be kept in balance and harmony between the triumvirate consisting of man, God and the natural environment.

The inquisitive girl finally takes her turn to pray

We eventually filled into the main temple for our turn to pray along with the thousands of others on this fascinating and mesmerizing day.  Thanks to Mas Ngurah’s family for a reenergizing respite from our task at hand here in Bali and now back to getting this wellness center off the ground.

Kindly leave your comments and thoughts below and contact us so we can help you make the most out of your Balinese vacation.

Balifornian Photo of the Day ~ Handsome Young Fella

While attending a sacred ceremony at Pura Besakih, Bali's Mother Temple, this handsome young fella flashed us his beautiful smile and huge bright eyes.  Thousands of Balinese Hindus flock to temples on Gunung Agung, The holy volcano and the highest point on the island of Bali, for the week long celebration. Mount Agung is the most sacred spot on the island and rises 3142 metres above sea level. Its a trek to get here especially when thousands of others are attemtping to navigate the small winding roads to give their offerings to the Gods, but its well worth it.

Just one of thousands of worshipers at Pura Besakih- Bali's Holy Mother Temple Have a great photo of Bali or Indonesia? Just send us an email with the image and details and your photography can be selected as The Balifornian Photo of the Day.

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