The Bali photograph for today comes from an auspicious outing for our Yoga and Wellness Retreat participants. After a powerful morning of yoga at the villa we headed into Ubud for a cultural excursion. We had been seeing the daily construction of the Bade (cremation tower) and Bull and we knew the royal cremation ceremony or Ngaben would soon be taking place. However, we did not know it would be this day.
Our Bali Yoga and Wellness Retreat was able to witness this rare Royal Cremation Ceremony in Ubud, BaliOur Yoga Retreat guests were overjoyed to be able to witness this rare rite. More images from this ceremony are soon to come and if you would like to read more about NgabenCremation Ceremonies and see some compelling photos, please click here and here and here.
Today's Balifornian Photo of the Day comes from Kuta Beach on Bali's neighboring island of Lombok. While Lombok's Kuta Beach is much quieter than Bali's beach that shares the same name, you will encouter some hawkers selling bracelets and nicknacks. However, nowhere near the intensity and crowds on Bali's Kuta.
Kuta Beach for yoga and meditation?
There are some secret and secluded beaches on Bali but most of the southern beaches are packed with partiers and sellers of all maner of goods. This is both a blessing and a curse to Bali, but the island offers many things to many styles of traveler. You can read more about Kuta, Bali here.
But back to Lombok's Kuta. Here you can find solitude, a place to meditate, do yoga and remain relatively uninterupted. Sure, upon arrival you may be surrounded by young girls wanting to sell you thier wares, but once you make it clear you are not interested (just tell them, "Mbak, tidak tertarik"). They will retort, "It is for my school and we need the money". It's certainly up to you and supporting education is always high on my list, but if you want your peaceful beach stroll, just make your intentions clear and you are off to find your solitude.
Kuta Beach offers many hills and peaceful spots to sit in meditation, clear your mind and relax just as this woman was able to do.
Meditation, yoga and other peaceful pursuits await you on Kuta Beach if you know where to find them
Our Bali Photography Tours
Balifornian offers fully custom small group photo safaris for all levels of photographers. We can lead documentary film makers deep into little known areas and we can take enthusiasts new to the art of photography and provide education and direction on all aspects of photography from getting to know your camera to post processing and blogging. Contact us today to find out about our special tours for photographers. Feel free to have a look at the photos in our gallery as they are good examples of the types of images you will be able to create on our tours. The tours are led by Michael, a professor of art and photography as well as some very special guest teachers, pro photographers, local artists and more. Contact us at photo@balifornian.com today for more information.
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Happy and swift travels!
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The Sacred Rituals of Besakih ~ And the Gods came down to Bali… A photo essay.
Putu and I have been working tirelessly on getting the plans secured for our wellness retreat center here in Bali. It seems to be a Sisyphean task as we progress forward, only to uncover six other undertakings that need to be accomplished. That being said each day brings new opportunities, blurring the focus but bringing excitement. You speak with 10 notaries (notaries are a bit like lawyers back home), and you get 10 different solutions. But progress is being made and with this upcoming week chock full of meetings, we will have a much clearer picture.
An inquisitive little girl looks back at me during prayers at Besakih Temple
In these pursuits we have taken counsel with a dear friend and experienced hotelier Mas Ngurah. We arrived at Mas Ngurah’s home to find his wife Dian preparing dozens of ornate offerings. I asked if there was a particular ceremony approaching and she told us Ida Batara Turun Kabeh was next week and asked if we would like to come. I had never been, so I jumped at the chance to witness one of the holiest rituals in the Balinese Hindu calendar. The sacred ceremony is observed on the full moon of the tenth month in Balinese Hindu calendar called Purnama Kedasa.
Here is short video of the day's events.
Thousands of Balinese Hindus flock to the six holy temples on Ida Batara Turun Kabeh
It is said that all the Gods come down to earth on this auspicious day and reside at the six holiest temples on Bali. Chief among these are of course Pura Besakih, or The Mother Temple on the slopes of mighty Mount Agung. Besakih is Bali’s largest, highest and most holy temple. It is perched 3142 meters above sea level on the active Gunung Agung volcano.
Leading up to the ceremony, several rituals are performed at Pura Besakih. Most notably is the exorcism rite called Tawur Agung Kesanga, which is held on the black moon, or Tilem Caitra, of the ninth month in the Balinese calendar.
Our first stop on Ida Batara Turun Kabeh, Pura Batur
First stop ~ Pura Batur Temple
Before we headed up the narrow roads of the volcano we stopped to give offerings at one of the other holy six temples called Pura Batur. It was utterly packed with devotees waiting hours to enter the temple grounds. It was as if someone said, “Hey! I have an idea, why doesn’t everyone on the island go to a tiny temple way up in the mountains on the same day?” People were passing out waiting in the heat as thousands crammed up the steps and through the narrow temple gates to get a chance to present their offerings and pray. In fact, I was the only one in our group able to negotiate the throngs and make it into the temple. I guess my finely honed skills developed over years of sneaking up to the front row at packed rock concerts paid off. I bequeathed my offerings and partook in the prayers, but when the group of several hundred were ushered out to allow for the next group to be let in, I veiled myself behind the huge piles of offerings and was able to linger inside and document the next group being led in prayer by the Mangku (High Priest).
A handsome young fella smiles back at us while we wait to enter the main temple at Pura Besakih
On to Pura Besakih, Bali's Mother Temple
After reconnecting with the group, we ventured off to the main event at Pura Besakih. This was no simple task as the traffic on the small snaking mountain road was backed up for miles. While this is a major event and a profound experience, it may not be for the average tourist as ones patience is genuinely put to the test. It may be best to visit Besakih at a time other than a sacred ceremony in order to avoid the vast multitudes and delays. I saw only a handful of bule (fellow ‘crackah’ or more properly, Caucasian) amongst the possibly tens of thousands the whole day.
Balinese Hindus make their way up the famous steps of Pura Besakih, The Mother Temple
Since the traffic was not moving, I decided to head out on foot so I could document the event. Much to my surprise, the pilgrims were not as densely packed as they were at Pura Batur. There were still thousands of worshipers but given Besakih’s immense size, the masses were not as dense.
Mas Ngurah led us up Besakih’s famed steps to his clan’s private temple dedicated to their ancestors. There are 21 other similar temple complexes on six terraces that surround the main temple known as Pura Penataran Agung.
The origins of Besakih Temple
The venerated temple’s name “Besakih” comes from the Sanskrit word “Basuki”, derived from the word “Wasuki” meaning Salvation. Sanskrit then became the basis for much of Bahasa Java and then into Bahasa Indonesia. Also, in Samudramanthana mythology, the same name “Besuki” refers to the Dragon-God “Naga Besukian”, who lived inside Gunung Agung volcano.
The Mankgu or Balinese Hindu High Priest leads the faithful in prayer during Ida Batara Turun Kabeh The first recorded mention of the temple’s existence comes from an inscription dating back to 1007 AD. It is known that since the 15th century Besakih was regarded as the central temple of Hinduism in Bali and remains so until this day.
The masses in sacred prayer during Ida Batara Turun Kabeh at Bali's famed Mother Temple
Tri Hita Kirana ~ The fundamental concept of The Balinese Hindus
The prevailing Balinese philosophy of Tri Hita Kirana is expressed in the temple’s architecture. This essential belief of the Balinese people teaches that life must be kept in balance and harmony between the triumvirate consisting of man, God and the natural environment.
The inquisitive girl finally takes her turn to pray
We eventually filled into the main temple for our turn to pray along with the thousands of others on this fascinating and mesmerizing day. Thanks to Mas Ngurah’s family for a reenergizing respite from our task at hand here in Bali and now back to getting this wellness center off the ground.
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While attending a sacred ceremony at Pura Besakih, Bali's Mother Temple, this handsome young fella flashed us his beautiful smile and huge bright eyes. Thousands of Balinese Hindus flock to temples on Gunung Agung, The holy volcano and the highest point on the island of Bali, for the week long celebration. Mount Agung is the most sacred spot on the island and rises 3142 metres above sea level. Its a trek to get here especially when thousands of others are attemtping to navigate the small winding roads to give their offerings to the Gods, but its well worth it.
Just one of thousands of worshipers at Pura Besakih- Bali's Holy Mother Temple Have a great photo of Bali or Indonesia? Just send us an email with the image and details and your photography can be selected as The Balifornian Photo of the Day.
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As discussed in previous blog posts (here and here), The Bali Aga or Bali Mula is a little known ethnic group on the paradise island of Bali and they provide an incredibly unique look back to Bali’s past and serve as a living museum of a 17th century lifestyle.
The Bali Aga village of Tenganan hosts the bloody ceremony of Mekare KareThey are a secretive and private group whose ancestors predate Hinduism in Bali. Culturally they are quite different from the rest of Bali’s population and have clung tightly to their history and ceremonies that are unlike any others on the island or the rest of Indonesia.
Two youg Bali Aga boys battle during Mekare Kare
Only two Bali Aga villages remain. The villages of Tenganan and Trunyan are located North West of Candi Dasa and Amed, in Eastern Bali and both are a stronghold of ancient native traditions.
The Human Blood Sacrifice Ritual of The Bali Aga
The Tenganans still practice an ancient rite known as Mekare Kare, which is a ritual blood sacrifice. This annual ritual fighting of its tribe members is a sight unlike any other that I have seen in South East Asia. Mekare Kare is the highlight of the 3 day Udaba Samba celebration that occurs in May or June.
The mediator struggles to maintain control during the blood sacrifice ritualI have been to many villages that hold fighting ceremonies between male combatants with all manner of weapons including bamboo poles, whips, swords, shields, animal parts, etc. Many tend to be tame and are more of a ceremonial fight than actual combat. (That’s easy for me to say as I stand on the sideline with my camera.) While there is bloodshed and fierce competition at times during the Mekare Kare battle, the combatants always leave with a smile and maintain love for one another. But lets be clear, these fighters are armed with razor sharp weapons that do damage and cause great pain.
The Pandanus Tree provides the razor sharp weapons used in the blood ritualPreperation for the Bali Aga ceremony
In the days preceding the big event the thorny Pandanus tree, much like a succulent, with razor sharp spines are harvested and compiled into packets of ten leaves at a length of approximately 14 inches (36 centimeters). They also carry a rattan-woven shield to protect them from their opponent’s attempts to smack and rake the thorns into his flesh.
A bundle of Pandanus leaves create the weapon used in the Bali Aga Ceremony
Before the fight commences, participants drink rice wine or tuak (a strong fermented local palm alcohol- for more on tuak, click here). This ritual symbolizes the brotherhood and love amongst the tribe. The fighting is judged and managed by a mediator who looks out for the safety of all combatants and makes sure no one falls off the platform or suffers injuries inconsistent with the battle proper. Battles last 5 to 10 minutes and the fighter who inflicted the most damage and draw the most blood with the thorny weapon is crowned the victor.
The crowd shouts and brandishes thier Pandan weapons during the ritual fighting
The Blood Sacrifice Battle of The Bali Aga
Early in the ceremony the young boys face off against one another and subsequent matches pit older opponents against one another.
Young boys are the first combatants in the Bali Aga ritual blood sacrificeAfter the battle a special traditional liquid medicine is administered to the injured (which tends to be just about everyone). Then the entire village prepares food and drink for an elaborate feast, which must follow the Balinese sacrifice of human blood.
The battle scars from the blood sacrifice ritual in Bali, Indonesia
I want to reiterate that travel into these parts of Bali is not for everyone and can result in violence if the traveler is unaccustomed to the ways of the Bali Aga. It is highly recommended to use the services of a guide or tour company like Balifornian or the many other qualified and knowledgeable companies in Bali.
The big men take thier turn battling it out during the Mekare KareHave you seen a unique ceremony or ritual like this in your travels? Please leave a comment below and tell us about it.
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Thursday, January 17, 2013 at 2:49PM 
Our Bali Yoga and Wellness Retreat was able to witness this rare Royal Cremation Ceremony in Ubud, BaliOur Yoga Retreat guests were overjoyed to be able to witness this rare rite. More images from this ceremony are soon to come and if you would like to read more about Ngaben Cremation Ceremonies and see some compelling photos, please click here and here and here.
